Day 8: Koh Tao

Having replenished their energy reserves, the Heckermachers set off the next day to see what the island of Koh Tao had to offer.

They walked hand-in-hand down the narrow road toward town, passing bright bungalow colonies built into the hillside, mom-and-pop stores that did laundry and sold gasoline in glass one-liter bottles, and a huge grove of dead coconuts.

They eventually got off the main road and wandered onto the beach.

Aw yeah, beach!

Anna found this balloon bobbing in the surf.

Since Koh Tao is a major scuba-diving destination, they decided to go for a dive. Tim was certified, but Anna had only gone on one dive in her life: on their "first honeymoon" in St. Barths, where a patient French man held her hand and managed her equipment for her the entire time.

They went with Koh Tao Divers, which turned out to be entirely run and staffed by jovial blond Finnish people. Before Anna was allowed to dive, she had to go to the town doctor and get a medical exam to prove that she would be okay despite her light exercise-induced asthma. 

Fifteen minutes and approximately five dollars later (yeah, non-American healthcare), the doctor pronounced her clear. They were good to go! 

The guide talks Anna through diving basics on the boat ride out to the dive site. 

See that building with a small red square over it just a little above and to the left of the photo's center?
That's where the Heckermachers stayed!

When they arrived at the dive site, the guide took Anna into shallow water and showed her the basics. He had her practice breathing, clearing her mask, and recovering her respirator when it fell out of her mouth. 

This happened within a sea of dozens of Chinese tourists, all snorkeling in matching pink life vests. Many of them watched Anna and her guide curiously, as if they were exotic fish. One of them even kicked her (lightly) in the head.

Adjusting occurs.

Finally, it was time to see some fish. Tim and the guide glided gracefully around the sea floor admiring the exotic life forms around the reef, while Anna worried that she'd get sucked into the engine of a passing boat and concentrated really hard on trying not to die.

An iridescent Parrotfish. 

By some miracle, Anna survives. 

 


After the first dive, Anna decided to be grateful that she'd survived and that she would never, ever have to do that again. Somehow, in spite of her resolution, Tim and the guide managed to talk her into going under again.

On the next dive, something miraculous happened: she relaxed and had a good time watching the fish. Stranger things have certainly happened, but rarely to the Heckermachers.

Anna is A-OK.

It wasn't quite 5 pm when they returned to shore, but the Heckermachers were starving. They stumbled to the nearest restaurant, a beachfront deck strewn with colorful cushions and furniture and sporting a large outdoor grill.

Is it time for the Early Bird Special?

Tim checks out his surroundings.

They ordered the grilled fish special, as well as some spring rolls and froo-froo beachy drinks to tide them over, and settled in to watch the sun set slowly over the water. 

Time to light the tiki torches.

 Finally, their fish arrived. They were whole, and huge!

Their fish party attracted some unexpected guests.

"I can help you finish that..."

Anna and her Siamese companion.

Within moments, they each had their own affectionate kitty – and spent the rest of the meal arguing over whose was better.